How Should Chinos Fit?
Chinos are comfortable, versatile, and effortlessly stylish — so much so that if you only get to pick one pair of pants for work, chinos would be a safe choice.
How chino's fit is however, an important factor. So how exactly should chinos fit? What are chino pants supposed to look like? Read on to find out.
How Long Should Chinos Be?
Let’s start with the basics and find out how long a decent chino needs to be and how far it should go up on your torso.
The Leg
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
You should think of the ideal chino leg length in terms of break.
A break is the way your pants fall. A medium break is one neat fold at the bottom, where the legs meet the top of the shoe.
For chinos, you want little to no break. Your main goal is to wear your pair of pants with clean lines and as few wrinkles on the fabric as possible.
Those who plan on wearing socks with their chinos should aim for legs that barely touch the top of their shoe. This tends to fit nicely in formal spaces, so keep that in mind if you’re buying the chinos pants style for work.
It’s also worth noting that the no-break length looks good on almost everyone, even if they’re on the short side.
But maybe you’re considering going sockless now and then. Chinos, loafers, and no socks can work well together, after all. In this case, a slight break might be a suitable choice. It’ll give you more flexibility because you could wear it both ways — with and without a hem roll.
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
If you’re opting for a turn-up, you shouldn’t have to roll more than three times before the cuff falls by your ankle. If you do, odds are your chinos are way too long for your legs.
The Rise
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
Rise is the distance from the top of the waistband to the crotch seam, and we consider it one of the most important aspects of the pants’ fit. Because, unlike leg length, the rise is hard to alter later.
What is the perfect rise for chinos? It really depends on what you’re trying to achieve.
As a general rule, wearing high-rise fits shortens your torso and makes your legs seem longer than they are. This trick works for both men and women.
And if that’s the effect you’re trying to achieve, you’ll definitely find suitable high-rise chinos out there. Otherwise, you can just get mid-rise chinos that sit between your belly button and your hip bone.
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
Low-rise fits, on the other hand, are usually made to be worn with the waistband resting on the hip.
How Tight Should Chinos Be?
Not all chinos are created equal. For instance, slim-fit chinos are considered dynamic and rather modern. These are perfect for when you want a close, silhouette-flattering cut but want to steer clear of the almost painted-on look of skinny chinos on men.
Even if you do like the skin-tight look of skinny pants, you still need to note that you’ll likely have to sacrifice comfort in exchange for the silhouette. They can feel quite restrictive compared to slim fits.
Side note: Figuring out how chino shorts should fit your body can come in handy at one point if you live or work somewhere warm. And the answer is usually relaxed and airy.
On the same note, there’s also the relaxed pant fit that works for most body types. Our StockTech washed twill chinos are a prime example of how a pair of pants can balance between mobility, comfort, and polished looks.
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
The Waist
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
Most chino models on the market have belt loops on the side. Our service chino features reinforced Bar-Tack loops, and you definitely could rock the pair with a leather or woven braid belt.
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
However, the rule of thumb here is that you shouldn’t need a belt to keep your chinos in place.
What if you have to size up to get the right leg length? Well, ideally, you’d take the pants to a tailor to have the waist taken in. But if that’s not possible, then you might just have to get a belt for it.
That said, chinos shouldn’t stretch around the waist, either. For servers, pockets are often used to carry tools, notebooks and bottle openers, so it’s important the weight of these tools don’t drag down your pants.
A good way to test if the waist is loose enough is to fill up your pockets.
Pop these items, or your phone, keys, and wallet in there. Then, rest your hands in your pockets. Do you feel like your chinos are going to drop? If so, they’re too loose around the waist.
To test if the waist is too tight, ask yourself what would happen if you were to sit down for a meal and overindulge. If you think you’d have to undo the button to be able to sit comfortably, then your chinos are likely a size too small.
Chinos that are too snug around the waist tend to leave impression marks on the skin after a long day out as well.
It’s worth noting that, unlike some denim bottoms, chinos don’t usually stretch a whole lot with use. So, make sure to get one that fits your body well from the get-go.
The Hips
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
Your chinos should be lightly snug around your hips and thighs. Anything that looks skin-tight would be risky and will likely not look as good as you’ve hoped.
You also don’t want to feel the chino’s fabric pulling around your knees every time you sit down or bend at the hips. Not only would this be extremely uncomfortable and restrictive for servers on their feet all day, but it would also look ill-fitting.
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
On the other side of the equation, there shouldn’t be too many creases around your quads. Remember, your goal is to create a clean, sleek silhouette all around!
Finding the right balance between skin-tight and too saggy can be tricky initially. However, you can try the pinch test. All you need to do is pinch the fabric at either side of your thighs to find out if there’s enough allowance.
The “ideal” allowance varies by fit and material. Generally speaking, an allowance of 1–1.5 inches is good enough. It’ll create just enough space for movement.
The Seat
From the Stock catalog (our men’s stretch service chinos in navy)
Much like the fit around the waist, hips, and thigh, you want a little bit of space here. Otherwise, you’ll end up with unsightly creasing around the crotch and the back (and the fear of a seam tear every time you sit down!).
But the key word is “a little.” Overdo it, and you’re left with a balloon lap.
A perfect pair of chinos would fall nicely against your body’s natural contours, narrowing near your waist.
When you’re trying on the pants, put them through a few trials. First, try sitting down and standing up over and over again. Do you feel any pulling around the crotch? You shouldn’t.
Next, walk around but with an exaggerated stride to see if the material pulls and creases.
Finally, you’ll want to put your hands in your front pockets and pull the fabric down and outwards. You should have enough room for your palms to sit inside comfortably, but not so much space that you can wiggle your hands far from your body.
From the Stock catalog (our men’s Stretch service chinos in navy)
Of course, if you have any trouble zipping up and buttoning the pants, the seat is too small for you.
On the other hand, if you’re dealing with chinos that balloon at the lap but fit perfectly everywhere else, it could be worthwhile to take them to a tailor so they can pin-fit the seat.
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
Get the Perfect Fit
Not everyone will find ready-to-wear chinos that flatter their build. Luckily, there are a couple of alterations that can improve the fit.
Tapering
Some models are tapered. They have a bit of room at the thighs and get tighter down around the calves, creating a carrot-like shape that can be flattering on some body types.
Our service pants feature a rather gentle taper. The reason we prefer the gentle, gradual taper is that it gives that tailored look without going overboard with the shape.
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
In comparison, our relaxed-fit washed twill chinos aren’t heavily tapered. The legs on these pants almost fall straight down. The result is a relatively baggy look with a more comfortable design suitable for everyday wear.
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
Both styles can be stylish and put together, but many folks with slender ankles tend to prefer the taper with a no-break look.
If you decide to go for the tapered shape, make sure you’re not picking one that clings too tightly around your calves. You should be able to comfortably put on a long sock (and take it off) without having to take off your pants.
You can always buy untapered chinos and get them altered later if you change your mind.
Just note that the pant legs might end up with a more noticeable break after tapering. This doesn’t mean your chinos got shorter, though. It only happens because of the way the material sits around your legs.
The Hem
The cuff of a perfect-length pair of chinos typically touches the top of your shoes without bunching up too much. To get to the ideal length, you can get the pants hemmed or simply roll them up.
Rolling is a great option because it also adds individual style and lets you show off your footwear choices.
However, to do it properly, you should gauge the amount you’ll roll by eye, keeping in mind that 1–3 rolls should get the pants roughly to the end of your ankles. Here are some extra tips to help you out:
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Wear the shoes you plan on pairing with your chinos to get a sense of how short/long the pant legs need to be.
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Make sure the amount of fabric you roll is even in the front and the back. You don’t want a slanted cuff.
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If you’re working with a wide leg, pinch and roll to create the illusion of a taper.
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Give the cuff a tug or two after you’re done rolling to loosen things up a bit.
Alternatively, you can get the legs hemmed and call it a day.
This is actually one of the easiest alterations a tailor can do to a pair of chinos. And if you have the needed skills (like familiarity with the overcast stitch) and a reliable sewing machine, you could even do it yourself at home!
From Instagram: @stockmfgco
Some people prefer to leave the factory seam inside the hem because it weighs down the cuff, but the choice is all yours.
TL;DR
So, how do chino pants fit, and how tight should chinos be at the waist?
They should sit comfortably on your natural waistline without needing a belt. The material shouldn’t pull or bunch up too much around the knees, crotch, or thighs.
As for the length, you want the cuff to touch the top of your shoes, but only just. A slight break or none at all is the goal.
Need help finding the perfect pair? Check out our collection of breathable chinos and trousers, ideal for those in the service industry.